The Solitary Wave and Periodic Waves in Shallow Water (Classic Reprint)

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Excerpt from The Solitary Wave and Periodic Waves in Shallow WaterNumbers in square brackets refer to the bibliography at the end of the article.The theory given by Boussinesq involves a number of phys ical assumptions in addition to those of the basic hydro dynamical theory, it also leads to a differential equa tion for the wave profile. Both of these methods assume that the depth of the water is small compared to some horizontal dimension, and they might be interpreted as developments of the whole problem in powers of the ratio of the depth to some horizontal dimension, such as wave length. However, because these procedures are so unsys tematic, it is not clear that they are equivalent to such developments, nor to what order of approximation the so lutions obtained are valid. The method of proceeding to higher approximations is also obscure.About the PublisherForgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.comThis book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully, any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.